When buying engine oil for your car, there are a lot of things you need to know. What weight is right? What does 5w40 mean? Is your oil an approved oil? What are oil specs? Thanks to Liquimoly for coming by to talk oils.
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Why buy oil from a blender (Liqui Moly) when in US you have excellent oils like Mobil, shell, penzoil, castrol.......brands that actually produce oil, not blenders.....
And if you want top quality you have Redline, Royal Purple, Joe Gibbs......
For real, US is the oil's heaven....
Liqui Moly is great oil specifically for European cars and designed for Porsche .... I buy it by the case from parts jobbers and not the big box stores and i get excellent prices on it. I have tried all the names and Motul , Liqui Moly and Castrol Syntec and are excellent oils and great value for the money and the only ones i use. There are some other good brands like Amsoil and Joe's etc but they are way too expensive as in my case when i change oil every 5k. You can spend as much as you feel necessary on oil but in the end it gets dirty all the same and changing it will be much more important for engine longevity than brand.
When you need engine oil, go the website of your preferred brand and use their Oil Checker to get a quote for the right oil you need.
Most of the oil checkers ask for the car registration. Others go off make, model and year but its very easy to find the right oil.
By the way, if its a 5w30 application, I always use VW504.00/507.00 spec oil because 504.00/507.00 is for both petrols and diesels and has a superior additive package.
i use synthetic diesel in both my motorcycles. i bought two jugs of liquid moly because the price was decent but i haven't used it yet. i think group 4 is better than group 3 but i have no idea. i used to use an ester oil in my cycle. it was yellow green and smelled like strawberry bananas, but it was really costly
Thanks for all the info in a manner that it could be understood. I'm still not sure if I should use Mobile 1 5w 30 extended performance 15000 miles for my 2014 VW TDI Jetta Sportswagen. I'm continuing the search by would like your feed back. Thanks for the videos.
what kills me is the first viscosity number is ussualy a 5w. why do they sell the same weight in an area that freezes or snows as an area such a desert. East coast vs Phoenix Az. all I find is 5w 30 or 5w 40 in multi vis oil. I and either a 10w or 15w 30 to 40 for the desert.
Check out Mercedesource on YouTube. Kent really likes this oil on high mileage motors. Kent is a very knowledgeable guy. I love watching his videos. This oil looks like it was used when poured. Very dark color not the nice Amber look you are use to seeing.
Very good presentation wrt the various aspects of motor oil. However, most of vagaries re motor oil requirements could be eliminated if manufacturers would include a pre-lube and post shut down external oil pump in vehicles. This is particularly true for turbo engine vehicles.
I have always paid more for oil and gasoline by using premium but since i became poor i use crap oil and cheap fuel the engine runs louder but survived 250,000km, fuel is fuel, oil is oil, you thrash your car it ll die, if you use it to transport just jse the crap stuff is ok
Just go to an engine oil website such as Castrol, Quantum, Mobil .... etc
Browse to the oil selector on the website, type in the car's registration and you will be advised on the right multi-grade and specification oil you need for the car.
A lot of the oil selectors will ask you to select your global location since the climate temperature will be considered in the selection.
VW507.00 is available in both 5w30 and 0w30.
The older VW505.01 is available in both 5w40 and 5w30.
VW507.00 5w30 is a thick 30 grade and is, as far as I'm aware, superior in performance to 505.01.
Just type '507.00 vs 505.01' into Google, tab to images, and you should be able to see a blue/grey graph that shows a comparison of the two oil specifications.
I have a 2005 chevy cavalier. 2.2 Ecotech. I get a ticking or a clinking noise on rhythm for the first start up in the morning. This happens at idle then goes away after a couple minutes. I suspect the timing chain. Wondering how long I can let this go? The vehicle rides smooth. She's my gas saver vehicle.
The most important question what is fully synthetic it’s just above blend. Fully synthetic is not even close to 100% synthetic. Mobile 1 is fully synthetic not 100%. Amsoil oil makes 100% synthetic oil it’s amsoil signature series. It’s what I been using for years. It’s about $13 a quart your paying for real 100% synthetic oil. It’s the best oil in the world its made in USA. Also they make the best oil filter no better. Call 800-956-5695 ask about free shipping. Don’t be fooled by fully.
All oils are a lot more viscous at 0 C than at 100 C, so why is the 100 C viscosity number higher? They must be comparing numbers with single viscosity oils. Like at 0 C this oil has the viscosity of a 5 weight oil but at 100 C it has the viscosity of a 40 weight oil. Seems unlikely that one oil (5W-40) could change viscosity that much less than another oil (5W) when heated. But I guess they do.
For me, Liqui Moly is an expensive oil. Is overrated. As he said, its Group III oil base, while Total Quartz is Group IV. Liqui Moly 50$ for 5liters, vs 25$ Total Quartz. Even cheaper if its made in my country. Total has 1 factory in Romania.
Synthetic blend is not "outdated". You get 80% of the advantages of full synthetic by using 20% synthetic oil. And the price is lower. That's why it sells and Ford recommends it in most of their vehicles.
Just read the owners manual and get your ass to auto parts .if you listen to these guys or anyone else over owners manual for just your car you must be an idiot
I don't care who ! How much hair You got on your face You just can't bypass the owners manual
He selling more shit just like every other company.... smh meet specification? What about blowing out of the water and super exceeding it? It’s nice to own a small company with 14 pickups running 120,000 a year I’ve tested allot allot of oil and nothing beats the performance of Amsoil.
Group 3 hydrocracked is all you can buy at your auto parts store. They can be called synthetic but are far far from it. They all barely just meet the requirement for manufacturers. Group 4 pao is motor oil on steroids. Way way better and the reason why it’s all the aviation industry will use. Oil Analysis testing can prove the superiority of group 4 pao oils.
So now I'm more confused than ever? I'm looking for Information on keeping my 42 year old engine running as a daily driver? Back in the day, you used a good oil and filter and changed it often. For the past few years I've been running mobile 1 with lucas ddp additive. From what I hear, I really need to be running Amsoil Z rod? BUT? this is a daily driver in a temperate climate! I'll be impressed when a company delivers an oil That meets The Dayrider76 living in Wyoming and still drives a Firebird year round spec! Till then, It's Mobile 1 high mile synthetic with lucas ddp! It's gotten me this far!
I'm mad that this guy got stuff wrong like there is 5 groups of oil not 4
I dont mean to nit pick but I start doubting someone's credibility when they say stuff wrong like group 3 is as good as 4 no it's just cheaper and works ok
The manufacturer wouldn't want you running group 4 because you wouldn't need to fix your engine as much
OEM recommendations are just that, recommendations. And if you use a different oil and something happens under warranty it's the manufacturers job to prove it the oils fault. Just Buy a pure API approved 100% group 4 synthetic. and a quality filter.
Amsoil, your engine will thank you. I have analysis reports done over the last 2 decades on extended oil change intervals and they show amazing low amount of wear metal and superior acid neutralization. Best of all they have a product application guide for make/model specific and an oil to fit all needs.
If you go to the Liquid Moly oil guide you can look up what oil viscosities can be used in your engine.
What is interesting is that the SAME engine which says 5w-20
in the US, will say you can use everything from 5w-20 to 15w-40
So it's obvious that the EPA oil stamped on the oil caps in the US is nothing but a EPA deception.
If you operate your vehicle under the conditions that the engine maufacture defines as normal, forget this video. You can use what ever oil meets what is listed in the owners manual and on the filler cap. If your usage qualifies as normal and the API grade required, it does not matter if it is convenional or synthecized so long as you change it according to the engine manufacturers directions.
- Except for private label oils that have no refineries of their own, rarely will you fine one that isn't acceptable to the engine's manufacturer UNLESS the engine manufacturer is looking to make extra profits ot ways to escape consequences for things like bad engineering.
--Do NOT take advice from specialty oil and additive peddlers. They accept no responsibility for their advice, their products or consequential damages from using whet they peddle. Do NOT follow ANY oil manufacturers advice on longer change intervals those of the engine manufacturer. The company that makes a multi-thousand dollar machine is more likely to understand its requirements than any aftermarket vendor selling liters of slippery fluid.
-Reputable engine manufacturers make an extraordinary effort to assure that proper engine oils are readily available and affordable. Questionable ones do things like removing dipsticks and filler caps so routine mainetance become dealer cash cows buidling engines that overheat from excesive frontion unless exotically lubricated.
-If you are operating under severe usage conditions, a synthecized oil may provide beter operation because of its more predictable characteristics outside the normal engine operation temperature range.
If I recall, we both said to follow the owners book.
And I have to say, if you think that shops use oil changes as a "cash cow" you don't really understand how shops make money. Oil services are typically loss leaders. As the shop Forman, if I did an oil change, it cost the dealer money.
Yes they can also make recommended repairs, but oil changes don't make most shops any money. It's a race to the bottom.
Liqui Moly is a godsend because it comes in 5L, where other oils are often 4.4L... and my engine needs 4.7. No more buying 2 jugs lol. As for OEM approval, its a BS system thats based more on politics and business practice than on whats actually good for your car. In my case, Infiniti used Mobil 1 for their OEM oil... extensive oil analysis shows that its quite literally the worst oil to use in the VQ engine.
The visosity of the oil you need to use is as indvidual as a fingerprint.........Someone who lives in Siberia might be ok using tge 0w-20 stamped on the cap while someone with the exact same engine living in the tropics might need to use a 15w-40.......Those who live in northern states may get by using a 5w-30 while those in southern states will likely need a 10w-30 or 10w-40........Then you have to take into account the TYPE of driving being done on a case by case basis.......City driving, towing, and agressive driving all factor into which oil is right for YOUR car.
Let me break it down for y'all. Look at your engine cap for the viscosity, go into a store and match it ( take your pick wether it be synthetic or conventional who gives a shit), purchase, change at regular intervals. Done.
The best way to know what oil to run in your vehicle. READ YOUR OWNERS MANUAL!!!!
In it you will find, usually under the oil section, the engine section or the specifications section, what oil is recommended by the manufacturer, for YOUR vehicle. Then run only that.
If your vehicle didn't come with an owners manual, then go back to the dealership you bought it from and tell them the vehicle was sold without an owners manual, and they should give one to you. Then read it.
When you are taking your vehicle in for an oil change, confer with the individual writing up your oil change about what they are going to put into it for you. Don't take the cheapest oil change just because it's the lowest price. Educate yourself about what different oils do for the vehicle. The cheapest may be a very poor quality oil, that though it meets the minimum API standards, only barely, is actually not the oil for your vehicle.
Educate yourself on what oil YOUR vehicle should have in it.
Any oil labeled Synthetic and made in Germany or Japan must be Group 4 - real synthetic. Unlike the U.S.. Here, the words "Synthetic", "100% Synthetic" or "Full Synthetic" have no definition. It can be Group 3 or 4.
This is WRONG information. The first number has absolutely nothing to do with the "thickness" of the oil. The first number just tells you the additives. If you live in Arizon, Texas, Florida, Georgia, Louisiana, etc, a 0W, 5W and 10W oil will all perform identical. 5W and 10W oils are basically obsolete. All everyone needs is a 0W oil. Either 0W30 or 0W40 oil. The additives are there. If your car is in a cold winter, it will benefit. If not, no big deal. If you buy a new car and start it on Amsoil from day 1, you won't need low quality oils like these "high mileage" oils. With Amsoil you can put over 1,000,000+ miles on an engine and transmission without needing a rebuild. I've seen many engines have HUNDREDS of THOUSANDS of miles using Amsoil and they perform like brand spanking new. STOP USING CHEAP OILS at quick lubes and auto part stores. They want to sell you low quality oil so that you'll keep coming back for more. This web site has all the cars on it and shows you all of the filters you can use. I use the 25,000 mile filter and 25,000 mile oil combination for my car and have been doing so for over 10 years. ZERO problems. Look at http://www.searchforparts.com and see if they have your vehicle on there. They have a huge database of cars and I think it even tells you how many quarts you need for your car.
difference between 0w-x 5w-x 10w-x 15w-x is base stock and additives! More high class base stock needs less additives! Most robust oil is with closest gap between two numbers! Synthetics full SAPS 10-30 or 15-40 are most robust oils with highest protection of wear on long run but temp range is more for spring-autumn not for winter! 0w-x,5w-x are oriented on fuel economy and cold starts!
What should I be running in my 94 K5 Blazer with 178k miles? Typical 350 5.7l. I've been running a 10w-30 synthetic blend but I get some ticking at idle.. worse at start up. Always change on time. I live in Michigan, if that makes a difference.
If your car has self adjusting hydraulic tappets (lifters) then there's not much to do really. Don't go up the viscosity scales, this is never good despite common belief and thinking. Consider going to 5w30 or 0w30, perhaps with a detergent oil flush as well. Avoid the harsh solvent based flushes.
My daily driver is a 1983 Toyota 2.4 lt. diesel hilux. I change the oil and filters every 6 months I pick off the shelf on special oil or the cheapest. It has never left a single drop of oil on my driveway. The 35 year old engine still runs like a dream and will outlast the car itself as the body is now full of cancer and I will have to reluctantly replace this awesome car.
My truck says to use 0W-20 in North America, but 5W-20 in the rest of the world for the exact same engine. Why would the manufacturer do this?
Also, I live in a warm climate where the temperature is rarely below freezing. We routinely see weeks of 90F-100F temperatures during the summer. Do I really need a 0W oil?
difference is only on cold start 0w-20 flow better , oil is good for fuel economy of 1% -2% with significant engine wear especially in hot conditions! 5w-30 even 5w-40 is much much better in hot climate but you must look for low HTHS high temp. viscosity to match your O.E.M oil usually >2.6 for 0-20, and use 5w-30 or5w40 wih HTHS >2.9 not higher !
gary miller Am I missing some knowledge here? Wouldn't a slightly thicker 5w or even 10w be better for hot climate cold starts? The oil will flow quick anyway and have a stronger film to protect. The higher viscosity will also fill into clearances better since the engine parts didn't expand yet.
Thanks for the info.
I live in Southeast Georgia near the coast so I experience way more hot and humid weather than I do freezing temps. 90F-100F during the summer and mostly 30F-40F during the winter with occasional temps lower than 30F.
It might make sense to use 5W-20 in the summer and 0W-20 in the winter. I'm in that weird climate zone where it's hotter than hell in the summer, but it can also get fairly cold during the winter.
Fuel economy ratings, and much of North America is VERY cold during winter. The engineers will find the thinnest oil possible for better gas mileage in the US, too. Here's what I recommend. Use 5w20 for hotter climates. That way your oil has more film strength in a cold start. If it's freezing, put 0w20 for better flow on a cold start. 5w20 can still be used in freezing temperatures for cold starts, but 0w20 just flows way better.
Can i use 5w-30 API CH-4 or higher (API) on Ranger T6? As the manual says, the oil "should" be 5w-30 ACEA A5/B5 when the diesel fuel sulfur content is <350 ppm (EURO 4), while 10w-30 API CH-4 when the diesel fuel sulfur content is >350 ppm (EURO 2). As of now the fuel here in Philippines is EURO 4.
Hey humble mechanic, I baught a 2001 VW Jetta god 2.0l but it didn’t come with a owners manual. I changed my oil and used 5w-20, I live in Canada and don’t know if I’m using the right oil. Could u please let me know what tipe of oil I should use so the vehicle last longer
Hello, I want to ask a question, My bike manufacturer company recommended us 10W40 but bike engine is running more than 30k km, but i want to use 20W50 so can i use it? because due to high temperature 10W40 oil is thin quickly.
Need your suggestion.
HumbleMechanic - I currently run a 2013 diesel Mazda 6. 2.2 litre unit. Very nice 180 bhp engine with enough torque to pull a house down. It demands ACEA C1 or JASO DL-1 in order to avoid wreaking havoc with the emissions management arrangements. There is no way anyone could make a mineral oil meeting ACEA C1 or JASO DL-1. Great video and great channel. Shame that some people have no manners whatsoever. It spoils it for the rest of us. Best wishes, P.
+HumbleMechanic - some people are so arrogant. If he loads 15w40 mineral oil into a modern European or Japanese diesel engine he'll be replacing DPFs in short order. Some people don't understand that there is far more to engine oil than simply its SAE viscosity rating.
LM is actually very popular here in Europe. You have to remember that there is far more to engine that just SAE viscosity and conventional or synthetic base stock. Car manufacturers are so specific now on oil requirements that it's almost materially impossible to make a bad oil.
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